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Water Birds Aplenty!
Bhigwan
For birding enthusiasts in Maharashtra
and the adjoining states, Bhigwan ranks high on the list of birding
destinations. Bhigwan is highly spoken of in birding circles because it is the
destination of migratory water birds including the beautiful flamingoes in the
winter months. If you want to sight a wide variety of water birds and that too
in their plenty, Bhigwan is the place to go!!!
I made plans to visit Bhigwan in
March 2014. I had confirmed online that the birds had arrived in Bhigwan and
that it was indeed a good time to visit Bhigwan. During my online research I
got to know about other birding spots, viz. Patas, Varwand Dam, Narayanbhet
etc. around Bhigwan or enroute from Mumbai to Bhigwan. I decided to make
optimum use of my time by visiting as many birding spots as possible.
The next step was to finalize the
accommodation and transport arrangements. Since I planned to make it a 3 days
visit, I decided to book a hotel in the nearest town or city. I finally decided
to stay in Baramati, about 25 kms from Bhigwan. Baramati is home to a lot of
industries and has decent hotels to cater to the business clients. I did not
have a problem in finalizing a hotel for my stay.
Bhigwan is about 250 kilometers
away from Mumbai by road. Since I planned to visit several birding spots during
the 3 days, I decided to hire a vehicle for the trip. That would give me the
flexibility to go wherever I needed to, whenever I wanted to.
The last step was to arrange for
a local guide who could guide me to the right spots. A local guide with his /
her expertise can help you utilize your time and efforts in an optimal manner.
They know the best spots and the right time to visit those spots. I finally
decided to take the assistance of Mr. Sandeep Nagare, who according to online
blogs was very knowledgeable and helpful. I called up Mr. Nagare and
fortunately he confirmed that he could accompany me during my visit.
All bookings done, my final
itinerary had a busy and hectic look to it.
Final itinerary
Bhigwan Trip - Final Itinerary
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Day
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Date
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From
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Departure
|
Arrival
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1
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10-Mar-14
|
Mumbai
to Baramati
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7:00 AM
|
12:00 PM
|
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Bhigwan
- Diksal
|
Evening
|
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2
|
11-Mar-14
|
Bhigwan
- Kumbhargaon
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Morning
|
|||
Patas
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Afternoon
|
|||||
Varwand
Dam
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Evening
|
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3
|
12-Mar-14
|
Mayureshwar
WLS
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Morning
|
|||
Narayanbet,
Bhuleshwar
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Afternoon
|
|||||
Kavadipath
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Evening
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Kavadipath
to Mumbai
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18:00 PM
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20:00 PM
|
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I was anxious, eager and excited
about the upcoming trip.
10th March 2014
Bhigwan beckons!
The journey from Mumbai to
Bhigwan started early at 7 am. The ride on the Mumbai-Pune expressway was a
pleasure and we reached Pune in approximately 2 hours. We encountered traffic
in Pune before we got onto the Pune - Solapur Highway. This highway was an
absolute delight. Smooth roads and minimal traffic meant that we reached
Baramati just after noon. A great start to the trip.
I checked into the hotel in
Baramati, Krishnasagar Residency. It was a decent and clean hotel. The food in
their restaurant was even better. A few hours of rest and relaxation later, I
was raring to go!
About Bhigwan
Firstly, some information about
Bhigwan. Bhigwan is a small town on the Pune-Solapur highway. Bhigwan is
located at one end of the reservoir of Ujni dam. During the winters, the
reservoir’s waters attract our migratory winged-friends from far and away. There
are villages located on the banks of the reservoir. Each village offers a
different view and experience of the reservoir’s waters. Two of the more
popular villages for birding are Diksal and Kumbhargaon.
How to reach Diksal:
At Bhigwan (facing Solapur),
after exiting the Pune-Solapur highway, you need to take a left turn and keep going for a few kilometers till you
reach an old bridge. Diksal village is located at the end of the bridge.
How to reach Kumbhargaon:
In order to reach Kumbhargaon, do
not take the exit for Bhigwan. Instead, continue on the Pune-Solapur highway
for a couple of kilometers, till you see the signboard for Kumbhargaon on the
left. Take the exit for Kumbhargaon. Follow the narrow road till you reach the
Kumbhargaon village. You may need to ask for directions at a couple of places.
Detailed instructions with maps
can be found at the following site, which I used in planning my travel. http://bhigwan.blogspot.in/. All
thanks to the author, Mr. Vivek Kale for the excellent information.
My plan for day 1 was to visit
Diksal and spend the evening there. I would visit Kumbhargaon the next morning.
An evening in Diksal
I reached the old bridge at Diksal
in about half an hour. As soon as I reached the bridge I could see a lot of
water-birds in the water. We crossed the bridge and reached Diksal village. I
met an elderly man, who agreed to take me birding on his boat. After some price
negotiations, we finally set off in his boat.
A few minutes into the boat-ride,
we neared some small islands in the water. And on these islands were a wide
variety of water-birds. Asian open-bills, Grey Herons, Egrets, Cormorants,
Black-winged Stilts, Godwits, Glossy Ibises, Pallas’s Gulls, Terns and many
more. The best part was that these birds were present in large flocks. It was
sheer a delight watching and photographing these birds.
Birds of a feather flock together - Asian Openbill Stork |
Balaning Act - Black-winged Stilt |
Great Stride - Great Egret |
Grey Heron in the company of Asian Openbill Storks |
Sun-basking - Cormorants |
All gloss - Glossy Ibis |
River Tern |
Black-tailed Godwits |
All credit to my elderly guide
for his skillful handling of the boat. He steered the boat close enough to the
birds without disturbing them. Rowing the boat and that too against the wind
was hard work indeed.
Next on my wish list was
flamingos. My elderly guide directed the boat to one corner of the reservoir.
There, on a large island, I saw a lot of Northern Shovellers, Garganeys,
Black-headed Ibises, Cormorants and Gulls. We maintained a safe distance from
the birds so as not to scare them away. In the water, beyond the large island,
was the pink treasure I was itching to sight. The Greater Flamingos.
Northern Shovellers in flight |
Birds Aplenty! |
Take off - Northern Shoveller and Little Cormorant |
Black-headed Ibis |
Pretty in Pink - Flamingos |
The boat made it’s way slowly and
steadily towards the flamingos. Flamingos are very shy by nature and tend to
fly away when anyone gets too close to their comfort. Therefore we maintained a
safe distance. The flamingos were an absolutely beautiful sight. The tall and
graceful birds in different shades of pink, with red and black wings, were a
treat to the eyes. Needless to say the camera’s shutter button was pressed down
continuously for a very long time.
Greater Flamingos |
Greater Flamingos |
We spent a lot of time near the
flamingos. After a while, rain-filled clouds started rolling in. These clouds
did not block the sunlight completely. As a result, we had some amazingingly soft light
for the next few minutes. I just could not get my fill of these beauties. The
flamingos however had their fill of me and started flying away. Even in flight,
these birds were grace and beauty personified. The flying flamingos were a
fitting finale to my first day in Bhigwan.
Greater Flamingos |
Up close - Greater Flamingos |
Up, up and away - Greater Flamingos |
Just as the flamingos flew away,
as if on cue, it started drizzling. We made our way back to the shore. Two
hours had passed as if in the blink of an eye. It was a most enjoyable and satisfying
evening. The up close experience with the flamingos was a long cherished dream
come true.
Water Drops |
And to cap off a beautiful day, a
beautiful rainbow appeared in all it’s glory.
Mobile shot - Rainbow |
As I returned to the hotel, I
wondered about the next morning. What will Kumbhargaon have to offer?
11th March 2014
Flamingos, Give me more!
The next morning I reached
Kumbhargaon village. I was directed to Mr. Sandeep Nagare’s house, where a huge
board greeted me. The board made me feel that I was in safe and knowledgeable hands. I
met Sandeep and his brother Nitin. They were friendly and welcoming.
A welcome sign |
The boat-ride was delayed due to a
light fog. So, I enjoyed a delicious breakfast at Sandeep’s house. I learnt
that Sandeep offers homestay facility to visiting birders at his house. Sandeep
was knowledgeable about the local birds. He had formed and trained a team of
local youths in bird-spotting and identification. He and his team also took
care of injured birds and nursed them to full recovery. It was heartening to
meet such selfless and dedicated nature lovers.
After the fog cleared, we started
the boat-ride. Sandeep informed me that he would first look for flamingos and would
cover the remaining birds after I’d had my fill of flamingos. That sounded like
a great plan to me!
We went pass Gulls, Terns,
Storks, Herons etc. in the hundreds. After half-an-hour of rowing, we finally
sighted a flock of flamingos in the distance. But before we could approach the
birds, they took off. Would the trip have an anti-climatic ending?
Taking to Flight - Greater Flamingos |
My fears were however unfounded
as the same flock returned and landed a lot closer than earlier. We approached the flock cautiously and this
time they did not fly away. The flamingos were in larger numbers than the flock
I had seen the previous evening. It was a virtual sea of pink!
The Pink army - Greater Flamingos |
Greater Flamingos |
Close march - Greater Flamingos |
We spent more than 45 minutes
watching and photographing these birds in various poses, wading, flying,
landing etc. This was my best time in Bhigwan.
Greater Flamingos |
In Flight - Greater Flamingos |
As we made our way back, we
noticed a flamingo that let the boat a lot closer than we would have expected.
On closer observation we found that the bird had a broken leg. I felt sorry for
the bird and watching it try to fly with it’s broken leg was an agonizing
sight. We stayed away from the bird not wanting to increase it’s misery.
Agonizing: A broken leg - Greater Flamingo |
Bhigwan had experienced
hail-storms the previous week. A lot of birds had been killed and many more
were injured by the hail stones. This particular bird appeared to have been injured
by falling hail-stones. It was a heart-breaking sight.
We continued to make our way
back. We stopped to photograph some Painted Storks. These colourful storks were
wonderful subjects for photography. After the flamingos, these birds fascinated
me the most.
Hand-painted: Painted Stork |
Painted Stork |
Next up I saw a Marsh Harrier
sitting on the banks. This was my first sighting of any Harrier species. It sat
on the banks for a few moments before it took off allowing me an opportunity to
get a flight shot.
Marsh Harrier |
We also saw Ruddy Shelducks, Godwits, Ibises, Asian
openbills, Gulls and Terns. The gulls and terns easily numbered in the
hundreds. The gulls hovered around the fishing boats hoping to catch some fish.
Ruddy Shelduck |
Glossy Ibis and Black-tailed Godwits |
Little Cormorants |
Terns and Gulls |
After the boat-ride ended, we
went to a spot nearby. There were countless painted storks and cormorants
there. We walked about and were rewarded for our efforts with sightings of the
following birds, Purple swamp hens, Glossy Ibises, Black-crowned Night herons, Yellow-crowned Woodpecker, Eurasian Collared dove, Sandpiper, Greenshank, Drongo,
Common Iora, and Spot-billed ducks. How could any birding trip be complete
without sighting a kingfisher? And last but not the least was a Common Blue
kingfisher.
Greater Spotted Eagle |
Black-crowned Night Herons |
Yellow-crowned Woodpecker |
Common Blue Kingfisher |
It was a wonderful end to my
birding in Bhigwan. And what an amazing birding experience it had been. The
flamingos had made my trip most memorable. I’m sure I will return to this
beautiful location in the future.
Beautiful post Tobin.
ReplyDeleteLooks as if you discovered a new land inhabited only by birds. :)
The flamingoes are very pretty and graceful. Wish you many more such rewarding trips. Keep posting.
Thanks for reading and posting your feedback Amita. It was indeed a Water birds' paradise. Keep reading :)
DeleteSuch a nice place. Eager to visit. Nicely written blog. Thanks
ReplyDelete